Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions and salt. Cook, while stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the garlic, ginger, cinnamon or curry spice, turmeric, and white pepper. Cook for a minute or two until fragrant. Add the broth, squash, and pears. Cook for about 20 minutes, adding the coconut milk in the last few minutes. When the squash is fork-tender, turn off the heat and add the syrup. Use an immersion blender or carefully transfer the soup to a blender. If using a blender, remove the plastic knob from the lid and partially cover it with a towel so that steam can escape while blending the hot soup. Blend until creamy and smooth.

While the soup is cooking, make the candied coconut and pepitas. Line a plate with a piece of parchment paper. In a dry pan over medium-high heat, toast the coconut and pepitas for several minutes until they start to turn golden brown and become fragrant. Watch carefully as they can go from brown to burnt very quickly. Stir in the syrup, cinnamon, and salt. Continue cooking for about 2 minutes while stirring, until the syrup is bubbling. Transfer to a parchment-lined plate and smooth into a thin layer. Leave it to cool and crisp up.

To serve, ladle soup into bowls. Place a very small dollop of coconut milk and drag a toothpick or knife through it to create decorative swirls. Sprinkle with candied coconut and pumpkin seeds and enjoy.